Monday, May 30, 2011

Day Sixteen - Thursday

THE WHEELS ON THE BUS GO ALREDEDOR... ALREDEDOR... ALREDEDOR...

Chelsea and I woke up today with absolute exhilaration and happiness to be alive! We were going to BARCELONA!!!

Okay, so we were actually exhausted. But the feelings were there... just buried under the feeling best described as “ugh”.

We met up with the group at 8:30AM in Plaza de GG, where the awesome tour bus picked us up and drove us to Barcelona... for about 11 hours... I won't bore you with the “and then we stopped at another rest area! And then we got snacks! And then we saw another rock!”, but here are a few highlights:

  • About 4 more hours of sleep – best siesta ever :D
  • Pepita made us more burritos for lunch! WOO HOO.
  • Watched “Wedding Crashers” and “Wall-E”. Oh man... seriously awesome films.
  • Newfound love of dark chocolate... I know, I was surprised too!

Around 7:00PM we arrived in Barcelona at our hotel, Hotel Alimara... which was incredibly beautiful and very modern! Caroline was my roommate, and that was awesome – she's really chill and we made good roomies for the trip. Good times :D

THEY SERVED THE MEAL THAT I WANT BEFORE I DIE!

After relaxing and cruising the channels on the TV (Sex and the City is funny in Spanish!), a demoralizing run-in with one of the girls on my trip about my dress (hello image issues, nice to see you again!) and a quick change, Caroline and I headed downstairs to the hotel dining room where we ate dinner with the group. The hotel itself is very simple and modern, so everything was incredibly sleek and monochromatic. I know, already mentioned that, but it's true!

We ate a rather nice Caesar salad (with some of the best croutons that I've ever tasted), steak with French fries and ketchup (I know, I was confused too), and Greek yogurt with berry jam (WAY too sweet, but very interesting – definitely a new experience!). During the meal I got to know Ramon's daughter a lot better and we discussed her family life and her experiences growing up with almost perfectly bilingual parents and how that altered her cultural lens. I was thrilled to get that perspective, because I had never heard it before! Very exciting!

After dinner, it was time to sleep... Friday was gonna be a HUGE day!

Day Fifteen - Wednesday

THIS IS WHAT TORTURE LOOKS LIKE

Today, we had two hours of Cuentos... there are no words for this. I was exhausted afterwards. I cannot handle talking about a story wherein the main character looks for, finds, fights and is killed by his alter ego who is in fact himself, much less for two full hours with one of my classmates leading the discussion and my professor leading him by the nose/completely taking control.

Ugh.

After Cuentos, I would have loved to go home and nap, but I couldn't... I had to go home and pack for Barcelona before I left for my conversation table! Once I did that, I headed over to the colegio to meet with the students.

NOT AS GOOD AS LAST YEAR.”
“OH REALLY, WHAT DID THEY HAVE LAST YEAR?”
“STANDARDS.”

Oh, Firefly, how perfect you make the world. Bonus points if you know what happened next!

I preface this section by saying that I thoroughly enjoy my Wednesday group of students – they are (mostly) intermediate level students with a huge desire to express themselves, and have very little trouble doing so.

When I got there, I decided to discuss the fiesta from the night before, to see what they had thought of it. I was surprised to find that they thought it was horrible! Sandra was the most negative about it, saying that they had only had three games where the year before they had included at least six or seven, that the band had played songs either for incredibly small children or more traditional pasa dobles or rumbas for the older generation without choices for anyone in between, that the bar was constantly running out of drinks and having to run to local supermarkets to pick up more, and that the fireworks show had been much better the year before. Jorge and Ana agreed with Sandra's opinion, but mentioned that last year was the school's 100th anniversary so, because of that, naturally it had been a much bigger celebration.

Through Jorge, I also found out why there had been very little cheering during the band's last number – it turned out that the song they had chosen, while a great song, was a song that was rife with sin and almost considered to be anti-religious! The real kicker was, it was played at an event to support and celebrate the life of the Virgin Mary! Once I realized this, I couldn't stop laughing, even though Jorge and Sandra were solemn and clearly shocked by the band's song choice. We discussed their overall opinions of the song and their religious faith and how it related to their school and everyday lives. Fascinating conversation with fourteen year-olds! I'm becoming more and more aware of how very aware they are of more mature concepts, such as religious faith and future career goals, from more young ages than you would find in America.

After we had discussed that for a while, I switched gears and we talked more about what topics we could use in the future – the boys quickly grabbed on to the sports topics and the girls wanted to discuss culture and more about the “outside world”. It turns out that Sandra will be taking an English exam in a few weeks for her future career (sort of like the PSAT) and will have to discuss gender stereotypes... ooh I plan to have fun with that idea next week...

Once it had been an hour, I dismissed everyone and we set the room back to the way it was. Jorge hung back and asked me a series of questions about American youth culture (still in English! I was impressed!), including what American high school-age parties were like. Were they like they are in the movies, where everyone is either obsessed with alcohol or with hooking up with “the hot young women”? We talked about how alcohol consumption is very different between the two cultures. Overall, I was impressed that he really was trying to perfect his conversational skills and was genuinely interested in other cultures besides his own. I'm not sure that attitude exists with such force in America... which is incredibly sad. We're always saying, “you need to translate, we only speak English” instead of taking the time to learn a language. We're such an instant-gratification society that it's become almost comical.

Sorry, quick rant done. Geez, I've been on a bender about this the last few days... sorry, will move on to lighter stuff now!

A HOUSE BUILT IN THE NAME OF LOVE

Historia de Arte was pretty straightforward today, so rather than bore you with talk about sculptures and stuff, I'm going to do what I should have done last week and describe La Casa de las Conchas, which is now the famous public library here in Salamanca!

The house, which gets its name from the fachada covered in conchas (sea shells), belonged to one of Isabel and Ferdinand's advisors and loyal friends. The family did not add the shells until the advisor/friend died and left the house to his son. The son married a girl from a very important family, whose family crest had sea shells inside it in a 2:1:2 fashion (meaning there were 2 on the first row, below it was 1, and then 2 more on bottom). This is important for later: in Spanish art and architecture, this is how groups of 5 symbols are organized.

When this son married this girl, he was completely in love with her and wanted to redesign the house to reflect his love for her... so, he had conchas commissioned and attached in the cracks between the bricks of his home to demonstrate this. Also, within the house he commissioned combinations of their family crests and miniature angels and wreaths (the symbols for marriage when together) to show how they were a happy couple. Finally, in the courtyard of his house (just inside the front doors, it is two levels, with the second level overlooking the first) he ordered and added Italian columns with their family crests at the top of each of them. Apart from the slight adjustment in material use (the columns are supposedly marble), the only way we can tell that they are Italian is in how the shells are arranged on the family crest: in a 2:2:1 fashion (see above for explanation of levels).

So basically, this guy marries a girl, and then redesigns his entire house, including the outside, in order to demonstrate his complete love and devotion to her. All of my ladies reading this: you know this has to be our next Valentine's Day gift request, right? Anniversary? Christmas? Let's band together and make this happen! Viva el Amor!

AT NIGHT

We got back after class and enjoyed what might be the best burrito of my life, and afterwards Chelsea and I headed out to do some night-time exploration with the other girls! She's been itching to do some night photography and I completely agreed with that sentiment. We walked through the Plaza Mayor all the way down to the rio, crossed it, and came back up the old and famous Puente Romano and got some incredibly fun shots! Man, that was so much fun... hanging out with my girls was the perfect way to end the day :)

Day Fourteen - Tuesday

CLASSES – IT GETS EASIER (I HOPE)

Well, I have to say that I have officially adjusted to my class schedule. The novelty of these classes has worn off and I'm used to my routine. I thought it was going to be a huge pain to have the same classes every day for the first time since middle school, but really I like the intensive approach! I feel like I get more accomplished, and of course having everything in Spanish is really helping me with my comprehension.

Here are some goals for my trip:
  • Improve reading comprehension
  • Improve conversational skills, including relevant vocabulary
  • Understand and improve all useful verb tenses and practice as often as possible
  • Practice Spanish writing skills

We'll see how much of that I accomplish – I'd love to just feel competent in my second language skills, y'know? Being here with this group, there's only a handful of them that truly want to speak Spanish just amongst ourselves, and that gets frustrating when I came to Spain to practice my Spanish. I know that some people need to feel secure and like they aren't far away from their own culture (hello, me from Week 1), but the mentality “we speak English, not Spanish” while you're in Spain makes no sense to me. When we were in the US, speaking English made sense because it's the language spoken by most of our culture, but since we are living and interacting with entirely Spanish people, it makes no sense to close yourself off to everyone in this way. I don't mean to sound harsh, far from it – I just truly don't get why it's such a bad thing to practice your Spanish among friends who have relatively the same level as you.

SCHOOL'S OUT FOR MARIA AUXILLIADORA

After yet another almuerzo of fish (sensing a huge theme here), I thought about my students in my conversation class – we didn't have class today because of their patron saint's day celebration today, so I didn't have to go in to talk with them. I missed the group – they were some fun personalities! Still trying to work out how to get Ana to talk...

Jesus reminded us later that the school was throwing a mini-carnival for the school's saint day celebration and that there would be fireworks and a live band on a huge stage. Caitrin, Camila, Jen and I got really excited! I was interested to see what they meant by “fireworks”, considering we were in the middle of a highly-populated neighborhood and genuine fireworks were probably not permitted... but you never know...

BOB ESPONJA! BOB ESPONJA! BOB EEEEEESPONJAAAAAAAA!!!

After a delicious of – you guessed it!- fish and crab meat, I changed into a dress and ran out the door to meet the rest of the girls on time. They got there just before I did, and we headed into the schoolyard behind the colegio to immediately run into Jesus and his family! He quickly made introductions to his two young (and absolutely adorable) daughters, Laura and Sophia. We all cooed (in Spanish) about how beautiful they were and I asked Laura (in Spanish) “how old are you, sweetheart?” to which she responded (in [defiant] English) “I am seven years old.” Well then! Never judge an adorable Spanish book by its cover!

We walked around and saw the carnival games, the bar that it seemed that a great majority of the adults were crowded around, and then finally the stage, where the rather loud music was coming from. There was a band and three singers (two female, one male) singing. We thought that they were really good! They had incredible voices and were singing a wide variety of songs. We listened and mingled a bit with the crowd, but were all surprised to see that almost no one was dancing... strange...

My favorite moment of the night, hands down, had to be this: we were listening to the band, and the male singer all of a sudden yells, “OOOOOOOOOOOH...” and the crowd of teenagers went wild and I thought, “...no. There's no way.”

Oh yeah. The singer sang, in Spanish, “who lives in a pineapple under the sea?!”

The crowd screamed back, “BOB ESPONJA!!!”

And they went through the theme song to Spongebob Squarepants, who is apparently a rock star in Spain. And I almost wet myself from laughing so freaking hard it hurt to breathe.

After the singers wrapped up their number (ending with a song that didn't seem to get much applause – I wish I had been able to understand what they were saying...), they gestured to the side of the schoolyard where there were different boxes of fireworks set up! Everyone gathered around (at a safe distance) and watched as the fireworks technician walked around the set-up and lit different boxes and displays to get them to ignite – they were gorgeous!! Because they were being shot right above us, occasionally you might get hit by a piece of one (not too big) and the nearby apartments were protecting their windows with their metal screens over their windows to avoid potential glass-related accidents. During the show, the technician lit one of the displays to reveal a portrait of Maria Auxilliadora that had sparklers and green bulbs attached, which when lit made her portrait look ethereal and beautiful. Caitrin and I looked at each other and she said, “only in Spain would you ever think to mix religion with fireworks!”

Seriously. We are clearly missing out on what could be quite a thing.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Day Thirteen - Monday

WHAT DO WE TALK ABOUT?

Well, today was fairly uneventful... here's how today went:

  1. Woke up and did some work (work ethic, what?)
  2. Went to library and did some things with the Internet (hooray library!)
  3. No class (el cuento), so I headed home to do some leisure reading (what's that?)
  4. Lunch and siesta (yum and Zzzzz...)
  5. Historia del arte (learning more about the stories behind the fachada and the Casa de las Conchas [super romantic story, I will explain it another time])
  6. Cena (Pizza with ham on it!)
  7. Deep religious and socio-cultural conversation with Chelsea (because we're deep and all that)
  8. Rockin' out to Rascal Flatts during blog updates and homework (because Chelsea is kind of amazing like that)

I'm sorry, tomorrow will be more interesting, hopefully! Maybe Eva won't have been killed by her car-crazy husband! Maybe there will be another unicycle-riding, giant-bubble-blowing beggar on the corner! Maybe the weather will be consistent throughout the day! (guess which of these is least likely to happen?)

JUST HOW POPULAR AM I?

Now, enough about me – I've been here for two weeks and I want to hear from you all! What do you think of my adventures so far? Is there something that you'd like me to see/ experience while I'm here? Send me an e-mail at Danni.Suit@gmail.com and I will happily answer questions/suggestions that you send me, or even just say hi back to you :) I love getting mail!

Speaking of mail, a special shout-out to my family for sending me birthday cards a whole week early! (My 22nd birthday is on June 3rd – there will totally be a birthday post!) Y'all are awesome and seeing Pepita look so confused when I got six whole cards in her mailbox was so excellent – thank you so much!! Love to you all!!

This week's updates will be a little confusing, because I will be posting Tuesday and Wednesday on Wednesday night... and Thursday through Sunday I will be across the country in BARCELONA!!! Those posts will (hopefully) be posted on Monday for your viewing pleasure.

Much love to you all, and thanks for reading so far!

Day Twelve - Sunday

IN HIDING FROM NONEXISTENT DANGER

Most of today was spent in hiding from the elections, but there were a few high points to my day! Apparently PP won the elections overall, well done them. There wasn't a lot of activity in Salamanca, meaning riots and stuff. We were pretty safe :) I'm going to emerge from my bubble of safe and blissful ignorance and read the papers, I promise.

WRITING FUTURE

So in yesterday's post I mentioned that there was a new novel in the mix... there will be more details in the weeks to come, but I plan to incorporate a lot of my experiences into it, and it will probably be written in blog format. So yeah, you'll get more details about that in a few weeks, once the storyline and cast is fleshed out!

Also, I have been writing slam poetry like a fiend this past week and a half, practically every night before I go to sleep. I'm either editing/adding to an old piece or writing a new one. It feels so freaking good to be inspired again! It's not that they're all about Spain or anything, but I think that the change in scenery has definitely made me stop and see some things about myself, how the world works, and how everything does and does not make sense.

I know, so deep. Restrain your applause, por favor.

MAYBE HE WAS FASCINATED BY THE TALKING MOVING PICTURES

This section has two parts to it:

  1. I FINALLY GOT TO TALK TO SAM VIA SKYPE AND IT WAS AMAZING AND I WAS SO HAPPY TO SEE HIM AND I MISS HIM SO MUCH AND AND AAAAAAAAAAAH
  2. The creepy old man watching me Skype with Sam in McDonald's

Let's start with the happy and end with the hilarious:

Skype, as it turns out, does work in McDonald's because their Wi-Fi connection is pretty decent, so while it's not a perfect data stream it's good enough for a nice chat with someone. I set up my computer with my attachable web-cam precariously balanced on the top of my laptop like a sad-looking tumor and logged in. Since I had just signed up, I got one call free (which was excellent because I planned to chat with Sam for as long as I possibly could), so I quickly called him... ring... ring... ring... Video and audio worked! “Hello?”

You can ask anyone that was in McDonald's at 6:43pm. I literally squealed and jumped around in my seat like a deranged escaped mental patient that had just had their happy pills. I was that excited to see him. Of course, my microphone for some reason didn't work (even though it totally had the day before with gchat), so I typed and he talked, but I didn't care because I got to see him and hear him and yay <3 I would bore you all with my yammering on and on and on about him and my love for him and how he's awesome, but I'll spare you... though I now have a screen-shot of us talking on Skype as my desktop background. Don't you dare judge me.

Now, the second part of the story: while I was talking with Sam, I could see the video that I was sending to him in the lower corner of my screen. Sitting at the table behind me, happily situated by the window, was this older gentleman that kept looking over my shoulder at Sam's and my conversation. It was incredibly strange. At one point, I looked over my shoulder right at him and smiled, giving him this face that I'm sure said the equivalent of “I can totally see what you're doing, don't think that you're getting away with being a creeper”. He stopped doing it after that. Huzzah for quiet authority!

HEL-ARTE & SUDDEN STORMING

Once I left McDonald's (because my battery died due to their sockets sucking at doing their job, which is to provide energy to electronic devices), I headed out onto the street... and discovered a very bad thing.

It is called Hel-Arte. It's cute, because it's really good ice cream, which is helado in Spanish, and it's artsy, which is arte. Get it? Get it? (I know, I'm a dork...)

Turns out, I could mix flavors and it would still be the same price as if I had paid for one! This is dangerous. So dangerous, I immediately threw myself off of that cliff and bought a single scoop of a combination of raspberry and chocolate ice creams. This is also commonly referred to as “Nirvana”, and is sought after by an entire religious belief system (and for good reason!).

I walked all the way home with my happiness from seeing my man, my happiness from the most delicious of hel-arte, and the happiness of it suddenly pouring down rain from out of nowhere (well, I was so happy from the other two things that I really didn't notice, actually). Life was good.

DAMN RIGHT I'M CREATIVE

When I got home, Pepita had dinner prepped for me (which was not spoiled by the ice cream, actually – it was incredibly small, so it was more like a palette cleanser than anything), so I ate and then went back to my evening routine. About an hour or so later, Chelsea came home a LOT earlier than I had expected her to! I was SO thrilled to have my roomie back – being alone in your apartment is one thing. Being alone in a foreign country where you only understand at maximum about 75% of what your madre is saying at any given time unless she speaks incredibly deliberately and slowly for you is another thing.

Dropping her stuff on her bed, Chelsea immediately started talking about Portugal and what they had seen and done – it all sounded like so much fun, I plan to live vicariously through her photos – but was so incredibly sad, because the zipper pull on her favorite purse had broken off! My ears immediately perked up, and I asked for her to show it to me. She still had the pull, so she showed me how the O-ring holding the whole thing together had simply come apart enough to let it out, which I had been fixing for years with my jewelry-making hobby!

Immediately I said, “hang on, let me get some pliers,” and I went and asked Juan, “hey Juan, do you have any pliers?” A weird look and a half later, Juan handed me some industrial-grade pliers (a far cry from needle-nose, let me tell ya) and I got to work trying to find the best way to jerry-rig the zipper pull back together. It turned out that I needed something else to hold it together, so I ended up using some nail clippers turned on their sides to hold the other side of the ring to get it to open.

As I struggled with this and Chelsea unpacked the rest of her belongingss, Juan came in to see what I needed the pliers for: once he saw what I was doing, he insisted that it was too challenging and that “my brother can handle that, he can fix these things for you, don't you worry about it anymore” and walked off.

Some of you might have gone and asked Angel Luis for help. I dug my heels in and refused to give up. About two minutes later, it was as if the bag had never been broken.

Dad, if you're reading this, you will be so proud to know that all the way in Spain, a belt was totally hitched up. Heck yes, I felt awesome.

Day Eleven - Saturday

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, JESS!

First of all, HAPPIEST OF 21ST BIRTHDAYS, JESS!!!

Today's post will be incredibly short, because it's just a list of things that I did with Jess for her birthday:

~ Shopping and walking around the upper part of the inner city
~ Getting ice cream before lunch
~ Hanging out down by Rio Tormes and walking in icy-cold water (and loving it)
~ Going home for lunch and homework and preparing for...
~ Going out to El Javi, O'Hara's, and Adagia for more ice cream and complimentary beers for the birthday girl

Needless to say, she had a fun birthday :D I enjoyed being her completely-sober chaperone!

SO MAD I COULD SPIT & A SATISFYING KIND OF DIRTY

A quick anecdote that will totally make it into the novel that I am in the process of planning and will subsequently begin writing...

Sometime after Jess and I finished up at the rio, we crossed the bridge that we were next to and walked along the opposite river bank on this paved bike path. It was really nicely shaded and very pretty -

Suddenly, there were two horses in a field next to the highway.

Those of you that know me well know that my first response when I see horses is to squeal like a five year-old and shriek “HORSES!!!!!!!!”, and then to continue with, “do you think that we can touch them/hug them/take them home?” After scaring Jess half to death with my sudden and alarming declaration of love for all things equine, I started walking through the field towards them. Quick geography lesson: we were along the river, over which there are several bridges. We were in a field right next to a major road and, thus, a major bridge. This field was close but not quite right next to the river, so getting to the only water supply was not impossible. Also, there were no trees in this field, so no natural shade sources.
So I got over to the horses, that surprisingly had not bolted away from me... and then I figured out why. Their front feet were chained together with a bolt-and-loop chain about a foot across to give them the ability to walk, but not run. Ditto lie down. Ditto anything else.

Oh, you think that's bad? It gets so much better.

After sputtering with rage, I check their feet out: they had clearly not seen a farrier in what looked to be at least the better part of a year – their hooves were overgrown and horribly cracked, so walking was probably excruciating for them. The white male had pretty much no tail, because it had been hacked off to the point where it changed from hair to solid bone mass (which for those of you that don't know equine anatomy, is about a foot from the tail base on their rears). The brown/black mare looked like she needed to be properly seen by a doctor, because her stomach was hanging a bit low and I wondered if she was pregnant (though with their feet chained up, can he get up to mount her? Probably not.) or if she had some kind of stomach problem going on... AND she was tied via her halter to a rock in the middle of the field so that she only had a limited amount of room to walk, as if the chains didn't do their job on top of that. Oh, and they both needed serious grooming and some TLC.

I rubbed them down with my bare hands as best I could to knock off some of the dirt and filth, swearing like a sailor at whatever (rude and horrid language here) person had put these innocent animals into this terrible situation, with complete disregard of their well-being and expecting them to just exist without the necessities for life. As best I could, I raked my fingers through their manes and tails and talked to them, which the mare seemed to really love. She kept rubbing her nose against me and looking at me. I was trying not to get all anthropomorphic on her, because her “please take me home with you” eyes almost worked on me. I was absolutely covered in dirt and other field-related filth, but it the most satisfying kind of dirty that I had felt in a very long time.

Needless to say, the next few hours were spent enraged at those poor horses' state of life. Over lunch, Pepita told me that they most likely belonged to gypsies and to avoid them as much as possible, because they were not nice people that could do some serious damage to me. I agreed to avoid the gypsies, but I couldn't get the horses out of my mind. Especially that sweet, brown-eyed mare...

Day Ten - Friday

WARM MILK??!

This section will be practically nonexistent, like my enjoyment of this moment:

Warm. Milk. In. My. Cereal.

Ugh.

There are no words for how absolutely disgusting warm milk is to me. I know, I know, it's supposed to relax you, but I do not need to be relaxed during my breakfast cereal.

In my defense, the milk was in the fridge. It felt cold when I held the carton in my hands (though granted, paperish cartons are not nearly so good at translating temperature as plastic ones). It didn't look warm when I poured it into my cereal.

And then, it was. There are no words to describe it's horrors. It just was.

Ugh.

WALK WITH ME

So I took a video of my excellent walk to class! It was only about ten minutes and pretty sweet, considering I walk to the Plaza Mayor every single day. My life pretty much rocks right now, yeah.

As soon as the internet stops being an idiot, I will upload the video for you all to watch! Until then stay tuned!

BOYS AND THEIR TOYS

In Cuentos today, Eva came in nervous and distracted all to heck. We asked what was wrong, and she started trying to laugh it off, though we could tell something is honestly bugging her. She finally told us the story, that it was “even worse than Plan Bolonia, because this could get me a divorce and not more of a headache from work.”

Hoo boy. This was going to be very interesting.

Apparently, her car had broken down the night before, and she desperately needed some means of getting to work. Her husband had offered to loan her his car for the next day, and then they would take hers to a shop over the weekend. While trying to reverse park, she had apparently rubbed up against a column and put a scratch in the paint job that could be seen from space.

As if that wasn't bad enough, this car was her husband's baby. He washed it at least once a week, kept it so fine-tuned that people could have easily mistaken it for still being on the lot, and he never let anyone touch it for the reason that he didn't want it to get damaged in any way. She was sure that as soon as she got home that there would be Hell to pay, so she had asked a colleague what to do; he had recommended that she not tell him and leave it to get fixed that afternoon while she was at work, and to never mention it again.

We were all slightly amused by the story, but she kept using phrases like “I just hope that he doesn't divorce me” and “if I'm not here tomorrow, there's a murderer in our house” and “I wonder if he'd use a gun or a kitchen knife?”, and it slowly became less and less funny until we were all horror-struck on her behalf. Granted, she was laughing, but still.

Still scratching my head on that one.

BEGGARS CAN BE WELL-DRESSED, TOO

I left class to go home, and on my way I stopped in McDonald's for a small french fry (because I was craving something so utterly American), and on my way out the door I was greeted by genuine violin music. I was so taken aback, I stopped mid-way down the steps and stared right ahead of me, where the sound was coming from. This middle-aged guy in pretty clean-cut clothes and a clean-shaven face was playing a violin along the side of the walkway, with his adorable scruffy dog asleep at his feet on a medium-sized dog bed. The song was unfamiliar, but it was beautiful – what he did was he played a CD that had the other parts of the symphony on them, and he accompanied it. There was a tiny hat in front of him for coins, so people would walk by and drop a few centimos into it and he would give them a smile in return.

Violin music has always been a touchy subject for me – I used to play violin (for like a year, and then I quit because I was both not good and uninterested in trying to get better), and I have horrifying memories of a song written for me that tortured me after the break-up... But listening to this stranger with his polish instrument and unpolished work boots, I felt completely at peace, on that step in the European sun with my french fries and my camera recording the song being played. I felt like this was exactly where I needed to be.

Later, when Chelsea left for Portugal and I was all alone (and sad *sniffle*) in the room, I watched that video over and over and remembered how the heat felt good on my skin and how the music was, for once, not threatening. And everything was right with the world.

Day Nine - Thursday

PLAN BOLONIA

This section is just more proof that I probably actually should pursue that teaching degree, because I kind of geeked out during this:

In El Cuento today, Eva was talking about how she had a big problem that needed to be dealt with – the EU is apparently implementing this union-wide education reform plan called Plan Bolonia, the particulars of which include a standardization of all of their educational systems, in order to make it easier for students to exchange among the countries and have similar educational experiences. I'll try and find some articles to show to you all, it's interesting stuff.

Eva was upset because none of the members of the committee that voted it into existence are educators, directors of a school, et cetera, so they have no background knowledge of whether or not this could actually work – not to mention the obvious cultural logistics that would have to be worked out (example: all students are expected to be at school, let's say, 8:30 – 3:30. Spain can't do that, because they have their siesta from 2:30 until at least 4:00. So now, she's got a mountain of paperwork to sort through and even more meetings to attend to be brought up to speed with the program, and she hates it.

Personally, I can't say that I blame her – we're a long ways off from total standardization of pretty much any aspect of life, and education is something that can't nor should be taken lightly. It all sounds good on paper, but I just don't see how it can work effectively in practice.

LANGUAGE BARRIER OF CHAMPIONS

So you know how you go to a foreign country and are expected to speak the local language? Whoo boy, have I got a tongue twister for you.

I was walking out of the public library on my way to class, and a couple stopped me on my way down the steps. The husband asked me, in Spanish, “do you know how to get to la fachada?” Something about his Spanish, though, didn't sound native (as if the question itself wasn't a dead giveaway), so I took a chance and asked back, “where are you from?” It turned out that they were visiting on holiday from Germany! I replied, “wow, I'm from the United States! What languages do you speak?” and we got into a fun conversation about languages entirely in mostly-functional Spanish. Neither of them knew any English and I didn't know any German past guten tag, but we got on just fine.

After a few minutes, I directed them on their map to where the famous fachada was, and we all went our separate ways. What I found so interesting was that we were all from different countries and only had the local language in common with which to communicate. I've run into members of other American and British study abroad tour groups, and they've all defaulted to English because it's the easiest for us all to express ourselves in, but in this case we didn't have other common ground to fall back on to. It was very different and unexpected, but they were the nicest people and we had a lovely conversation, so that was just how things panned out!

SO CHALLENGING BEING 16

Another day at the colegio – and an entirely new set of students! Here they are:

Rosana : (16) Intermediate-Advanced level, enjoys music and movies (mostly American-made), has a huge crush on Orlando Bloom, really enjoys learning English, wants to improve her grammar and pronunciation
Maria : (16) Intermediate-Advanced level, very mature, likes traveling, wants to teach Spanish in an English-dominant school (or work in an interpretation job for the government), wants to improve her grammar, improve her cultural awareness and perfect her pronunciation
Natalia : (16) Intermediate level, knows three languages (Spanish, Italian, English), has family in northern Italy that she visits fairly often, skittish about messing up her English in front of her friends, can't wait to be old enough to go to clubs and party with her friends, wants to improve her grammar and listening comprehension

We chatted about our lives and such, they asked me the standard questions (“What part of the US are you from?” “Do you have a boyfriend? Is he cute?” “What is the airspeed velocity of a laden swallow?”), and then we started into the same Stereotypes game as I had done yesterday. They ate it up!

The worst moment was when we were discussing Teachers... Rosana started to say something, got this confused look on her face, and turned and asked Maria for a translation of a term, which got Maria's eyes as big as Montana's blue skies. None of this I could hear well enough to attempt to interpret, so I waited for Rosana to turn and ask me as well: “que es un _________?”

When I realized what she meant, I was hesitant to interpret it, but I figured she might hear it later and should probably start it off with as clinical of a translation as possible: “it means pedophile.”

Her face lit up. “Ah, yes! That is the word! Yes, we have a Maths teacher who is like that. He touched my friend once, on her behind. We told our English teacher, who said that it was probably an accident.”

Yeah. I was speechless. Like mouth-hanging-open-chin-to-the-ground speechless. What do you say to that? “Um. Well. It's good that you told someone, especially a teacher. That was a very good decision.”

And then they started chirping about American movies, as if it had never happened. Needless to say, they had to ask me twice whether or not I liked Johnny Depp, my mind was clearly otherwise occupied.

THIS MOMENT BROUGHT TO YOU BY: WIN

After I left the girls (and the horror that was the awkwardness of the conversation topic choice for a few minutes), I came home to find Pepita ready with lunch:

PAELLA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This classic Spanish dish is sensational. I encourage you to go out and get some, right now.

THE UNIVERSITY'S SECRETS

For Historia de Arte, Jesus had told us that we would have a two-hour class in order to make up for the hour lost due to canceled class on Friday (for their trip to Portugal), and that one hour of class would be spent out on the calle taking in the local architecture. The reason for this was so that we could experience the time period that we would be talking about and learn why the famous fachada looks the way it looks. And so that we wouldn't fall asleep during two hours of lecture. (his words, not mine)

I arrived to class, and we talked about Christian art and architecture, Muslim architecture as their expression of art, and the layout of the Catholic Kings and their resulting children's alliances that guaranteed Spain (at the time) holdings in the Americas, Germany, and Portugal. From a nonexistent country to 100 years later becoming the ultimate political power was a seriously excellent story that I encourage you to check out.

After we had lectured for an hour, it was time to head out onto the street – and straight for the fachada, which is an addition to the main structure of the Universidad de Salamanca that glorifies all that is Carlos I and his reign. I'd looked at the structure before, but never known who all of the figures were supposed to represent – the result of one day of class was remarkable, because this gorgeous structure suddenly became this awful declaration of the king's command for complete respect and loyalty from people that had just tried to overthrow him from power in favor of his legitimately-powerful (but completely crazy) mother, Juana.

After noting all of the fascinating additions to the structure (and believe me, there were quite a few of them), Jesus beckoned us inside the building, something that I didn't think that we were allowed to do unless we were students! We got stopped briefly by a security guard, but after Jesus displayed his teaching badge and explained that we were only touring the building as an Art History class, we were given free reign of the building.

The structure itself is not as large as it appears on the outside – it is a square building with a glassed-in courtyard in the center, within which stands a massive Californian sycamore tree that was a gift from one of America's presidents to the university. As we walked around the lower level, Jesus stopped and pointed above the doors, where the name of the class taught within the room and a brief description of the course were cut into the stone wall in Latin. Each different discipline (medicine, law, languages, et cetera) was given a different background color from the others to distinguish itself, and the colors were from when the structure was first built! (example: medicine was yellow.

We walked into a room where theological studies were once held, in a room with a turret-like podium (like in the cathedrals where the priest would stand and give his sermon) at the front and long, timeworn benches that filled the rest of the space. We weren't allowed more than a few feet into the room, because none of the furniture had been altered in any way since the 15th century, apart from light dusting and cobweb removal. Jesus pointed out a bench a few rows up and told us that there was student-written graffiti from when the famous Lope de Vega had been a student at the university, and had written his name into the wooden table where he worked! SO COOL OH MY GOSH!!!

We saw a lot more, but I'll make it shorter and mention two more incredible sights:

Upstairs, we saw the famous library that had not been altered, again, since the 15th century. You couldn't walk more than six feet into the room before you ran into a glass box that allowed you to look in, but not to touch a single thing. The reason for the high security was that within the library were some of the oldest and rarest books in the world, the oldest of which was an 11th-century Bible! Needless to say, I geeked out like whoa.

The other really cool place that we saw was the cathedral within the university itself, where if you, your partner, or both were alumni of the Universidad de Salamanca, you were allowed to get married there! It was breath-taking and incredibly intimate, and we were all in love with the gorgeous decorations along the walls.

Jesus started talking about history in general: “everything that you do now, becomes history. Seemingly meaningless moments can become something great, like de Vega's scribblings on his desk. That was preserved for generations. Your actions and thoughts will be preserved for generations. And this class, now, is history.” He smiled, quietly turned on his heel, and walked back down the stairs, leaving us to stand there.

I totally had chills.

Day Eight - Wednesday

I'M SENSING A THEME HERE

Every morning, I get up as Chelsea is leaving for class. Every morning, Pepita has been up for at least an hour or two and has set up the fixings for us to eat breakfast at our leisure. And every morning, it looks exactly the same. I have no clue why this is so fascinating to me, but it totally is.

Pepita has told us that if we don't feel like cereal, then we can just put the bowl and spoon away and eat fruit, or vice versa – she just lays things out for us so nicely! I comment on it because every single morning, it looks exactly the same.

AMERICANS ARE OBSESSED WITH JUSTIN BIEBER AND FRIED CHICKEN

I got home from class, and Pepita told me that she had made me a snack to take to my conversation tables, and that we would have lunch after I returned because the day before I had looked half-crazy and like I was going to hurt myself from eating too quickly. What a thoughtful madre!
Today, I got a new group of students! Here they are:

Jorge : (14) Intermediate level, friendly, enjoys futbol and tennis (Nadal is his favorite player), wants to improve his pronunciation and grammar
Sandra : (15) Intermediate-Advanced level, very opinionated, social butterfly, wants to improve her pronunciation and cultural awareness
Cristina : (15) Intermediate-Advanced level, spent two months in Canada with a host family (as part of an exchange), wants to improve her pronunciation and cultural awareness
Ana : (14) Beginner level, dyslexic (tested in Spanish), very shy in English but friendly in Spanish, wants to better her listening comprehension and grammar

One of those might look familiar... that's because I have her in two groups! Unfortunately, this group was more advanced than the group from the day before, so guess how much she spoke?

If you guessed “not at all”, you really need to go on the road with those psychic powers. They could make you some good money.

Today I came a bit more prepared: I brought an activity to do with the kids to get them warmed up and to see how the personalities pieced together. I had written down different people or groups of people on notecards, folded them up, and asked the kids to pick one. We would be discussing stereotypes about these people or groups of people, such as “Boys” or “Mothers” or “Spaniards”, et cetera. It turned out pretty well, because they seemed to enjoy getting to express their opinions about things without being told that they were wrong!

Probably the best response out of all of them was “Americans”. I was hoping that they would choose that card so that I could see what they thought of my culture. Here are some responses that I got:

“Obama and his birth certificate. Seriously, what's the big deal?”
“They are fat and work too hard. If you work too hard, and are always on the move, how can you be fat? Americans are confusing.”
“They're fair-weather fans. Like, they don't care about futbol until it's the World Cup, and suddenly everyone's cheering for the winning team.”
“They make some of the best music. And movies.”

And here is my absolute favorite:

“They are obsessed with two things: Justin Bieber and fried chicken.”

Sandra mostly dominated the conversation, with Cristina a close second to back up a point that her friend made, and Jorge seemed content to throw in tidbits every now and then. I tried to pull Ana into the conversation more and more, but she seemed scared to join in. I'm at a loss as to how to include her more: any ideas? I'm open to anything.

CAN'T TOUCH THIS

After class, I headed to the JMU Office to check my e-mail and such, and saw Ramon in his office. I don't think that I've explained this yet, but Ramon is the visiting faculty member that is helping Jesus run the program. He's married and has one daughter, who graduated from James Madison University a few years ago and comes back to Spain from time to time to visit her parents. He's also an incredibly funny man that I love to chat with when I have time.
While I was in the office, we stopped what we were doing and had a lovely conversation. During this, he asked over and over why I wasn't going to Portugal, and couldn't I just pay for it later, et cetera. Once I had thoroughly explained that I just didn't have the money for it, considering I barely had enough to cover the security deposit on the cell phone he had provided everyone in the group with, he let it go... and continued on a joke that should have been old, but was too funny to ever stop laughing.

Ramon: “Well, it's just a shame that you'll miss out on some incredible sights.”
Me: “Yeah, I know. I was really looking forward to it.”
Ramon: “Just make sure that the girls get lots of photos for you. Maybe you can make a poster.”
Me: “Wait, what are we talking about?”
Ramon: “My hot bod. <strikes Adonis pose> I plan to shock you all with my manly beauty.”

There are two things that you have to understand about Ramon to make this the most hilarious that it can be: one, that he is at least in his fifties if not in his sixties, so his body is not exactly drool-worthy; and two, he has an incredibly straight-faced humor that is the perfect opposite to Jesus' constantly-jolly personality. He's not serious at all about his “macho” stance, he's poking fun at himself and making those of us (mainly me) that are missing home laugh at least three times a day. He's also, as I'm sure that most of you are convinced, NOT a creeper. He's just got a hilarious dry sense of humor that likes to tease and poke fun.

Another example of Ramon's humor came out a few minutes later, when I was checking my e-mail:

Ramon: “I did not sleep well at all last night. It was incredibly frustrating, because that's the second night in a row that I've had this problem, and I can't figure out why.”
Me: “Hmm, I'm so sorry. Maybe it's the temperature? Or your pillows were at a bad angle?”
Ramon: “I don't know. How did you sleep? You don't seem as upbeat and energetic as you usually do.”
Me: (working on about four solid hours of sleep) “Yeah, you caught me, I slept badly the last two nights too.”

Before I could tell him that nightmares had kept me up, he continued in this manner:

Ramon: “Aha, well I know the reason for that. You were plagued with thoughts of the love you left behind in Harrisonburg.”
Me: (touched by the truth and deepness of this) “Well, perhaps a little.”
Ramon: “See, we can't have been up for the same reason. I don't have a boyfriend to lie awake and think about at night.”
Me: (trying not to laugh) “Mmhmm, that's it. It must be different.”
Ramon: “So, talking about your lack of sleep, it was either your love that kept you awake, or your lust for the vision of me in my bathing suit.”

I've taken to going along with this line of humor, like when we went to Tapas later and he kept his coat on (because, honestly, it was a little chilly in the restaurant we were in), and I asked him, “Ramon, why don't you relax and take your coat off?” and he replied, “because it would be too much for Jessica (who was sitting on his right) to handle, and I can't make her faint right in the middle of cena.”

Needless to say, I totally love Ramon and his sexy bod <3